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For years, my husband and I had been captivated by the tales of the Outer Hebrides, particularly the remote islands of Harris and Lewis. The Sunday Newspaper travel sections painted a picture of majestic beauty, incredible scenery, and a unique heritage that beckoned us to embark on a road trip to these remote islands.
Finally, last year, my husband and I decided to turn our dreams into reality and set off on a journey to discover the wonders of Harris and Lewis.
Our expectations were high, fueled by the promises of breathtaking landscapes and a sense of pure peace and tranquility. And let me tell you, we were not disappointed. From the moment we arrived, it was clear that these islands held a special kind of magic. The rugged coastline, with its dramatic cliffs and pristine beaches, took our breath away. The rolling hills, adorned with vibrant wildflowers, seemed to stretch on forever, inviting us to explore every nook and cranny.
But it wasn't just the natural beauty that captivated us. Harris and Lewis are steeped in a rich and fascinating history, with ancient standing stones, mysterious brochs, and traditional blackhouses dotting the landscape. We immersed ourselves in the stories of the past, learning about the island's Gaelic heritage and the resilience of its people.
And then there was the peace and tranquility that we had longed for. Time seemed to slow down on these islands, allowing us to truly disconnect from the outside world and embrace the simplicity of island life. We found solace in the quiet moments, whether it was watching the sunset over the Atlantic Ocean or strolling along the incredible deserted beaches.
In this blog post, I want to take you on a journey through the wonders of Harris and Lewis. I want to share with you the incredible scenery that left us in awe, the unique heritage that fascinated us, and the pure peace and tranquility that enveloped us.
Join me as we explore the hidden gems, uncover the secrets of the past, and discover why a visit to the islands of Harris and Lewis are an experience like no other.
The Isle of Harris
The landscape is diverse, rugged and beautiful. Regardless of the time of year or weather, it has the power to transport you to a place of calm and quiet relaxation away from the hustle and bustle of modern living. Whether you want to enjoy the peace and tranquility or explore the great outdoors, the Isle of Harris has plenty to offer you. Contrasting scenery is the main impression of the island. Moonscape features of the ancient, glacier scoured mountains in the north, give way to the rich machair and miles of stunning, golden sandy beaches of the Outer Hebrides.
Where we Visited on the Isle of Harris:
Luskentyre Beach
Wow. Just Wow. Luskentyre Beach is undeniably a hidden gem. Renowned both nationally and internationally as one of the most breathtaking beaches in the world, it's sheer beauty and natural splendor fully justify the accolades it receives. Its pristine white sands, crystal-clear turquoise waters, and breathtaking mountain backdrop create a paradise for nature enthusiasts and photographers alike. During our early morning visit, we were fortunate to have the beach all to ourselves, allowing us to fully immerse in its beauty. If it weren't for the weather (on the chilly side), we could have easily mistaken it for the tropical paradise of Barbados!
St. Clement's Church, Rodel
We visited St Clements late afternoon and during our visit, we were captivated by the architecture and history of this medieval church. Although neither of us are particularly religious, we couldn't help but be in awe of the intricate stone carvings on the exterior and interior of the building. Stepping inside, there are beautiful stained glass windows. Every detail, from the ornate altar to the delicate woodwork, showcased the stunning craftsmanship of the church. St. Clement's Church is a true testament to the beauty of religious architecture and a must-visit for anyone seeking a moment of tranquility and reflection.
The Golden Road
We spent a whole day driving along the Golden Road which was spectacular. This scenic coastal drive winds its way through the eastern side of the island, offering breathtaking views of the rugged coastline. As we drove along, we were treated to dramatic cliffs, turquoise bays, and charming crofting communities. We took our time to explore the small villages along the way, learning about the traditional way of life and discovering local artisans. The Golden Road is a hidden gem that allows you to truly experience the beauty and authenticity of Harris.
Local artisans showcase Harris Tweed textiles which are still woven by crofters on the Isle of Harris (as well as in Lewis), on traditional foot driven pedal looms. Weaving demonstrations are available. In Tarbert, there’s a large Harris Tweed shop where you can browse a wide selection of Harris Tweed products and take home a piece of this iconic fabric as a cherished souvenir.
Isle of Harris Distillery
As one of my favourite drinks is a glass of botanical gin, a visit to the Isle of Harris Distillery was a must. This award-winning distillery produces the famous Isle of Harris Gin and has recently started producing whisky. We took a guided tour of the distillery, learned about the distillation process, and of course- sampled their handcrafted spirits! The Isle of Harris Gin was exceptional and deserves its own space in my blog:
Isle of Harris Gin is a premium Scottish gin made using a unique blend of botanicals that reflect the island's rugged and wild landscape. The gin is distilled in small batches using a copper still named "The Dottach," which means "The Distiller" in Gaelic. This traditional method allows for greater control over the distillation process, resulting in a spirit of exceptional quality.
One of the key botanicals used is sugar kelp, a type of seaweed that is hand-harvested from the clear waters surrounding the island. This gives the gin a distinct maritime character, with hints of salty sea breeze and a touch of brine. Other botanicals used in the gin include juniper berries, coriander seeds, angelica root, and bitter orange peel. The taste of Isle of Harris Gin is smooth and well-rounded, with notes of citrus, floral, and a subtle hint of spice.
Overall, Isle of Harris Gin is a true reflection of the island's spirit and craftsmanship. It is a gin that captures the essence of the rugged landscape and the rich maritime heritage of the Isle of Harris, making it a truly special and unique spirit.
Isle of Lewis
The Isle of Lewis is known for its stunning landscapes, including rugged coastlines, pristine beaches, and rolling hills. It is also home to a wealth of historical sites, such as the ancient Callanish Standing Stones and the well-preserved Dun Carloway Broch. The island's Gaelic heritage is celebrated through traditional music, language, and arts, adding to its cultural charm. Whether you're exploring the breathtaking scenery, delving into the island's history, or immersing yourself in the local culture, the Isle of Lewis offers a truly unforgettable experience.
Where we visited on the Isle of Lewis:
Callanish Standing Stones
The Callanish Standing Stones are a remarkable ancient monument that dates back over 5,000 years. This Neolithic site consists of a circle of standing stones, with a central monolith and several avenues radiating outwards. The stones hold a mysterious and spiritual aura, and visiting them at sunset was a truly awe-inspiring experience.
*please note that the visitor centre is currently closed for redevelopment and will reopen in 2025. For more info please visit www.calanais.org
Bosta (Bostadh) Iron Age House, Bernera
As keen Coastal Path walkers, it's not very often that you encounter an Iron Age settlement nestled in the small valley! In 1992, a severe storm exposed stone walls of an ancient village which had lain hidden under sand dunes at Bosta Beach, (Bostadh means farm in Old Norse). In 1996 the site was excavated to reveal a well-preserved settlement of houses that dated back to the Late Iron Age (or Pictish Age) of 400-800AD. Visiting this ancient site is like stepping back in time. This well-preserved dwelling offers a glimpse into the lives of the people who lived here over 2,000 years ago. As you explore the stone walls and thatched roof, you can imagine the daily activities that took place within these walls. Located in an idyllic, small valley, with streams, a beautiful beach and rich fishing waters, Bosta would have been a perfect home for these early dwellers. The site is a must-visit destination for history enthusiasts and nature lovers alike.
*click here for seasonal opening times.
Comunn Eachdraidh Nis
During our visit to Comunn Eachdraidh Nis, we had the opportunity to learn about the rich history and culture of the community. The museum showcased a fascinating collection of artifacts and exhibits that highlighted the traditional way of life in Nis. We learned about the island's fishing heritage, the importance of crofting, and the unique Gaelic language and traditions that have been preserved over the years. The friendly and knowledgeable staff provided us with insightful information and deepened our appreciation for the local history and heritage.
Gearannan Blackhouse Village
Gearannan Blackhouse Village allowed us to step back in time to experience the traditional way of life in the Outer Hebrides. The village is a collection of restored blackhouses and traditional stone cottages with thatched roofs. Walking through the village, we were able to explore the cozy interiors, complete with peat fires and low ceilings. The knowledgeable guides shared stories of the village's history and the challenges of living in such remote and rugged conditions. It left us with a deep appreciation for the resilience and resourcefulness of the people who once called Gearannan home.
These are just a few of the many incredible places we visited on Harris and Lewis. Whether you're seeking natural beauty, ancient history, or cultural experiences, these islands have something to offer everyone.
Organised tours of Harris and Lewis
Don't fancy organising your own trip? Prefer an organised tour of the Outer Hebrides led by an experienced tour guide? There are some excellent multi- day tour trips available to book in advance.
Check these options below, both of which are highly rated by fellow travellers.
3 day tour by Rabbie's Small Group Tours
Highlights
Explore the distinct landscapes of the biggest island in Scotland of Lewis and Harris
See the mysterious standing stones of *Callanish standing stones
Walk on the white sands of Luskentyre
Visit the ancient highland home of Arnol Blackhouse
Includes
Entry to Arnol Blackhouse
2-night accommodation with breakfast
Transportation by mini-coach
Storytelling from a professional driver-guide
Cancellation policy
Cancel up to 14 days in advance for a full refund
Click here to book: Lewis, Harris, and Outer Hebrides Tour from Inverness.
6 day tour by Rabbie's Small Group Tours
Highlights
Visit world-famous Loch Ness
Take a ferry to Stornoway in the Outer Hebrides
Discover prehistoric remains and ancient stone circle on
Stay overnight in picturesque Plockton on the Isle of Skye
Includes:
Tour transport in a 16-seat Mercedes mini coach
Storytelling from a professional driver- guide
Bed and breakfast accommodation (5 nights)
Cancellation policy
Cancel up to 14 days in advance for a full refund
Click here to book: Outer Hebrides & Isle of Skye: 6 day Guided Tour from Edinburgh
Accomodation
Where we stayed:
NB: This gets booked up quickly in holiday periods
Alternative choices with great reviews by fellow travellers:
Where to eat
When it comes to dining on the Isle of Harris and Lewis, you're in for a treat. The island offers a diverse range of culinary experiences that showcase the best of local produce and traditional Scottish cuisine. From charming cafes to fine dining establishments, there is something to satisfy every palate. Whether you're craving freshly caught seafood, hearty pub fare, or innovative dishes made with locally sourced ingredients, the dining options on the Isle of Harris and Lewis are sure to impress. With a focus on quality and authenticity, many restaurants and eateries prioritize showcasing the unique flavors and culinary traditions of the region. Here are a few top options to look out for:
Flavour - Tarbet
The Harbour Kitchen, Stornaway
The Boat Shed, Stornaway
In conclusion, our journey to the remote islands of Harris and Lewis was a dream come true. The breathtaking landscapes, rich history, and sense of peace and tranquility exceeded our expectations. From the rugged coastline to the rolling hills, every corner of these islands held a special kind of magic. We immersed ourselves in the Gaelic heritage and embraced the simplicity of island life.
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